Montenegro

Montenegro

This small Balkan nation shares the Adriatic coastline with Croatia to the north and Albania to the south. The east coast of Italy is just across the sea, and here you’ll find all the charm of Italy, without the crowds and tourist-ready price tag.

The seaside cities of Budva and Sveti Stefan get a lot of attention, but the towns that border the Bay of Kotor shouldn’t be missed. I spent five days in Montenegro before continuing south to reach the beaches of Albania.

Montengro Highlight #1

Explore the Bay of Kotor by boat

We based ourselves in Kotor, within the pedestrian-only old town that is completely surrounded by medieval walls. The boat rentals are a short walk into the main part town, where you can charter a private boat or join a group charter.

Our captain started by taking us out of the bay and into the Adriatic Sea, directly adjacent to the Croatian coastline. We explored the Blue Cave before heading back to the bay. We stopped at the beautiful town of Perast, where we enjoyed a brief walk to take in the (few!) sights, and then journeyed over

Other sights included Mamula, an uninhabited island-turned-luxury hotel that was the site of a concentration camp during WW2. Another historic stop included the submarine tunnels that are dug into the cliffs near the mouth of the bay, built by the Yugoslav Army to hide its naval fleet.

Marina with docked boats and sailboats, mountains and buildings in the background under a blue sky with clouds.
Two glasses of wine on a wooden table with vineyard and mountains in the background.
The view from Alluiva
Person sitting at an outdoor winery table with vineyards and mountains in the background.
Vineyard with lush green grapevines, surrounded by trees, set against a backdrop of mountains and a blue sky with clouds.
Three wine glasses on an outdoor table with a scenic mountain view in the background.
A woman in a light-colored dress and sandals walking on a path in a park-like area with green trees, a stone wall, and mountains in the background under a blue sky with clouds.
Mountain landscape with reddish glow, silhouetted trees, and green foliage in foreground.
Outdoor wine and chocolate tasting setup with glasses and chocolates on a table, in front of a rustic stone building with arches and potted plants.
A couple sitting at a table outdoors with wine bottles and glasses. The setting is under a leafy tree with a rustic background. Bottles of Waterford Estate wines are on the table, along with menus on a clipboard.
Mountain landscape with a paved path and lush green garden in the foreground under a clear blue sky.
Tasting setup with bread, wine, olives, oil, and a scenic view.
Scenic view of a lush vineyard with mountains in the background under a clear blue sky
A vineyard with rows of grapevines under a clear blue sky, with mountains in the background.
Dirt road with vineyards on either side, leading to a mountainous landscape under a cloudy sky.
Two glasses of white wine on a dark table outdoors with green vineyard and mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
A woman wearing an orange jacket sits at a table outdoors, holding a glass of red wine. She is smiling and there is a scenic mountain landscape in the background with trees and greenery.

Montenegro Highlight #2

Walk (and hike!) the historic medieval town of Kotor

Cat lovers, this one’s for you: Kotor, known as the city of cats, loves its feline population so much that they are protected and fed by the city’s inhabitants.

Aerial view of Kotor Bay in Montenegro, featuring a coastal town with red-roofed buildings, a historic stone tower, mountains, and ships in the bay.
Marina with sailboats, mountains, and a person swimming near a floating buoy
Harbor with boats, mountain background, signs for fresh fish and seafood in a coastal town.
Woman on a sandy beach with mountains and ocean in the background.
Colony of African penguins on a sandy beach with rocky coastline and ocean in the background.
coastal city with mountain and clouds spilling over
Panoramic view of a coastal beach with clear blue water, sandy shoreline, lush green vegetation, and houses near the shore, under a partly cloudy sky.
Coastal scene with rocks, seaweed, and penguins swimming in clear blue water under a blue sky.
African penguins on sandy beach, some nesting, with sparse vegetation
A group of penguins on a sandy beach with large boulders, turquoise water, and houses on a hillside in the background.
A group of African penguins on a rocky shore with sea in background.
A group of penguins on a sandy beach, some are adults with distinct black and white markings, and others are chicks with fluffy feathers.
Landscape with mountains and calm sea under blue sky and clouds.
Ostrich grazing in a foggy landscape with green shrubs.
Cape of Good Hope sign indicating the most southwestern point of the African continent, with rocky terrain and ocean in the background.
Person standing on rocky coastline with arms outstretched, overlooking the foggy sea.

Montenegro Highlight #3

Enjoy a luxurious escape at the One&Only Portonovi

There’s no reason to leave the resort once you arrive at One&Only Portonovi—and why would you want to? This 5-star resort is located directly on the Bay of Kotor, providing a small sandy beach and both indoor and outdoor pools.

There are plentiful food options, from the top-rated Sapia and Tapasake restaurants to a can’t-miss breakfast.

Landscape view of a resort with a sandy beach, swimming pool, palm trees, and hills in the background. The sky is blue with scattered clouds.
View of Cape Town coastline with mountains, residential area, and beach
Man hiking on a rocky trail on a mountain with a scenic view of clouds, vegetation, and a town in the background.
Rocky mountain peak under a clear blue sky
Aerial view of Cape Town coastline with city buildings, ocean, and Signal Hill covered in green vegetation.
Person hiking on a rocky trail with a city and ocean in the background
Woman standing on rocky viewpoint overlooking Table Mountain and Cape Town coastline, with blue sky and clouds.
Two people rock climbing on a sloped rocky surface using handholds and chains, surrounded by greenery.
Clouds cascading over Table Mountain with a view of Cape Town, South Africa, under a clear blue sky.
Person with camera standing on rocky hillside with shrubs under a clear blue sky.
Two hikers walking on a rocky trail on a mountain slope with greenery, under a clear blue sky, and a cloud-draped peak in the background.
Person hiking on rocky terrain with a cityscape and mountains in the background.

Restaurant Highlights

Ćatovića Mlini (Morinj, Bay of Kotor)

If you’re visiting the Bay of Kotor, this restaurant cannot be missed. Your reservation begins in the Bay of Kotor, where a small boat picks you up from your chartered boat. Be prepared to crouch down as the boat maneuvers under low bridges to the restaurant, set on the stream off the Bay, for the most picturesque meal of your life.

La Catedral Pasta Bar (Kotor Old Town)

A beautiful restaurant serving Italian food in the shadows of the cathedral. You’ll find this restaurant in a narrow alleyway, with the majority of the tables set outside along the cobblestone streets. Arrive early or be prepared to wait, as tables are limited and a line quickly forms.

BBQ Tanjga (Kotor)

Meat lovers, this one’s for you. This casual, counter-service restaurant is widely known as having some of the best meats in Montenegro, and as such, the line can be long and the food can run out. The restaurant had sold out of roast chicken on our first night here, so we returned the next day and were not disappointed.

Tapaske (Portonovi Resort, Herceg Novi)

Located within the One&Only Portonovi resort, this waterfront restaurant is a true fine dining experience. The menu features Japanese cuisine with a twist.

What to Know Before You Go

Getting around:

Public transportation is not as plentiful in Montenegro as in other European countries. We struggled to find trains or buses that aligned with our timeframe, so we hired drivers from our hotels to get around the country. This included a 2-hour drive between Podgorica, the capital city, and the Bay of Kotor region. If the Bay of Kotor is your final destination, you can also consider an international flight to Dubrovnik, Croatia, and a 1-hour drive with a border crossing.

Where to stay:

Podgorica Airport was our entry into the country, though we only stayed in the capital city for a little under 24 hours before making our way to the coast. The seaside towns and the Bay of Kotor are the true gems of this small country: Kotor, in particular, was a charming mix of historic old town and beautiful natural views.

What to eat:

The most common cuisine was pasta, a clear sign that the country is just a short ferry from Italy. Other cuisines, from Japanese to barbeque, are also accessible, though one thing you won’t find is Americanized fast food. Fun fact: Montenegro and it’s southern neighbor, Albania, don’t have a single McDonald’s!

When to visit:

The temperate climate of Montenegro has warm summers and mild winters. Shoulder season, April-May and September-October, is a good time to visit for smaller crowds, though it won’t be warm to enjoy to enjoy the beaches. Kotor has a large port with cruise ships coming in and out during peak season, so days are often swarmed with daytrippers who vacate by the evening.